“There is no love greater than the love of eating.” This undeniable truth wraps around the icon of a rooster on the napkins and menus at Brittania Cafe in South Bombay, source of Parsi and Irani food since 1922.
Brittania isn’t an unknown gem. I first heard about the place from an article on Bombay food in the Wall Street Journal. And on my second visit, earlier this afternoon, the octogenarian proprietor Boman Kohinoor offered clippings from Time and Saveur.
But sometimes, the hype is justified. Brittania isn’t cheap, certainly compared to the other Parsi cafes scattered through the southern part of the city; our meal for two cost about 15 dollars. It’s hours are restrictive; the restaurant is only open for lunch. Neither of these points should deter anyone from visiting; Brittania’s take on Parsi food is immensely satisfying as well as unique.
Brittania’s signature item is the berry pulao, a generous pile of saffron-hued rice topped with chunks of potatoes, crispy onions, fried cashews, and dried-red berries, allegedly imported from Iran. Then there’s the protein, chunks of tender mutton, chicken, or hard-boiled eggs. (Vegans and egg-averse Indian vegetarians can also opt for stewed vegetables. It’s aromatically spiced, hearty, and deeply satisfying.
Seeking to expand my repertoire, I opted for the fish patra. Kohinoor explained that this pomfret preparation used to be steamed in a banana leaf, but now gets wrapped in aluminum foil. No worries; the fish is unwrapped at table side, then capably, if unceremoniously, deboned by the waiter. The preparation is distinguished by the sweet green curry that covers the fish when it’s revealed from the foil — a sweetness that comes from gur, or jaggery, an unrefined sugar that’s boiled down into liquid form and added to the chutney.
Two items complete the Brittania experience– a dish of the creamy caramel custard for dessert, and a dose of Kohninoor’s charming repartee. “Are you British or American?” he asks my wife, as we prepare to leave.
“American,” she responds. “Why?”
“The British say ‘Thank you so much,’ while the Americans say “I appreciate it.’ But ‘how much is so much?’ I ask them.” Evidently one gentleman finally answered the query by spreading his arms wide to demonstrate the magnitude of the thanks.
That seemed appropriate to everyone. “Thank you so much,” Kohnioor told us, and we responded in kind — “Thank you so much.” — before stepping back out into the mid-day sun.
